Changdokgung (Changdok Palace):
Changdok was rebuilt in 1611 & served as the official residence of a number of Yi dynasty kings, including the last one, King Sunjong, who died in 1926. Today you can visit the throne hall, reception rooms & private living quarters, furnished in a European & traditional Korean style. Behind the palace, the landscaped Secret Garden or 'Piwon' is a tranquil collection of pavilions, ponds & copses. Daily guided tours are available in English. Open every day except Mon. Opening hours vary according to time of year. See local listings for precise times. Admission W2,200.

Changgyonggung:
East of Changdok Palace are the ancient grounds of Changgyong Palace, the largest public park in Seoul. A favourite haunt for young couples & families. Tel: 762 4868. Open daily except Tues, times vary month to month, admission W700.

Chongmyo Shrine:
Opposite Changgyong Palace, this walled complex includes a wooded garden & two buildings containing the royal ancestral tablets listing the names & great deeds of the 27 Chosun or Yi dynasty rulers. On the first Sunday in May, the inner courtyards & shrines are opened to the public for an annual Confucian ceremonial rite. Tel: 765 0195. Open daily except Tues. Admission W700.

Chogyesa (Chogye Temple):
Headquarters of the largest Buddhist sect in Korea, this traditional temple has a typically colourfully painted, curved wooden roofline. Every May, for Buddha's birthday, the temple grounds become a marvel of lights with hundreds of lanterns strung around the temple. 45 Kyongji-Dong, Chongno-Ku, Tel: 732 2115. Open to the public during daylight hours, admission free.

Lotte World Folk Village:
This indoor folk village is part of Lotte World, a sprawling entertainment complex with hotel, department store & the largest indoor amusement park in the world. The centre provides a visual lesson in the country's history & culture, reconstructing the history of Korea from the primitive period to Japanese occupation via scenes of daily life. Lotte World, Chamsil, Tel: 411 4762. Open daily 0930-2300. Admission to the folk village only is W2,000 while general admission to the amusement park is W13,000.

Pukansan National Park:
A 30-min bus ride north of the centre takes you to Pukan Mountain for a magnificent view of the mountains & the city below. En route to the top, pause for a refreshing drink of water at any one of several Buddhist temples along the trails. Tel: 909 0497. Open Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat-Sun 0700-1800. Hiking trails closed Nov-15 Dec & Mar-May. Admission W1,000.

Toksugung:
The ancient Toksu Palace was the seat of the Chosun dynasty, which ruled Korea for more than 500 years, until Japan annexed the Korean peninsula in 1910. Reconstructed after the Korean War, various royal remnants lie dotted throughout the grounds, including a banqueting hall, several pavilions & a statue of King Sejong, the 15c king who created Hangul, the Korean alphabet. At weekends, the re-enactment of the Chosun dynasty ceremony for the changing of the royal guards takes place. Tel: 752 0735. Open daily 0900-1800 (May-Aug until 1900, Nov-Feb until 1630), closed Mon, admission W700.

War Memorial:
Modern museum providing a visual history of Korea at war, with hundreds of weapons, memorabilia, war planes (including a B-52 bomber), tanks & weapons. The memorial is in Yongsan, across from the Defence Ministry. Tel: 709 3114. Open daily 0900 to 1800 (Nov-Feb until 1700), closed Mon, admission W2,000.

63 Building:
The 'Yuk-sam' Building, as Koreans call it, in Yoido is Korea's tallest building. It boasts a fun, but cramped aquarium & Seoul's only Imax cinema. For W500 you can ride the glass elevator to the observatory deck. In the second & third weeks of Apr the adjacent Riverside Park is crowded with cherry blossom pilgrims. Nearby piers offer nighttime cruises of the river which start at W12,000 a person.

The COEX Urban Entertainment Complex:
The mall located in the basement of the COEX centre in Kangnam opened in May 2000 & claims to be Asia's largest indoor shopping & fun centre. In addition to clothing shops representing every Korean & international brand, there is a 16-screen multiplex cinema, a large English language bookstore, Korea's largest aquarium & scenic walks past indoor gardens & waterfalls.